Here is one version of a puppy sale scam

• Scammer starts a Facebook group like ‘Cairn Terrier Lovers and Adoption Group’.
• The group is salted with repeated posts from people reporting that they just took home a wonderful puppy from a breeder. The post is glowing with positive comments about how great the breeder was, how easy they were to work with and how lovely the puppy is and encouraging anyone looking for a puppy to purchase from this particular ‘breeder’ or ‘kennel’.
• The picture attached to the post is often stolen from another breeder’s website.
• The post provides a link to the scam breeder’s contact information or Facebook page, which itself is filled with stolen pictures, but typically lacks contact information. Often the only way to contact the ‘breeder’ is via facebook.
• When someone contacts the scam breeder about a puppy, they are assured there are puppies available (most good breeders don’t have continuously available puppies – you might hit it lucky, but most of the time you need to be prepared to wait).
• The scammer asks for a deposit or full price for the puppy. Often the deposit is requested in a format that does not allow you any recourse when you realize you have been scammed.
• When it comes time to pick up the puppy, the purchaser is sent to a bogus address or ghosted completely about pick up details. If the puppy is to be shipped, the purchaser is often asked for additional money for a special shipping crate, special insurance or handling fees and even with payment of these surprise fees, no puppy ever arrives.

How can you identify Facebook puppy scams?

• Look up the page or group details – click on the ‘About’, ‘People’ or ‘Members’ links underneath the page or group title. Some sites make it very difficult to see any information about the page / group or who is involved – in itself a red flag.
  • Check the admins and moderators for the site. These are usually found under the People or Members tabs. Click on the Admin name and check their profile.  This may show you that they are from a country known for on line scams (Nigeria, India, Bangladesh etc.) or that is highly unlikely to have a significant population of Cairn Terriers.  If any of the admins or mods are suspicious, the site should be viewed with a healthy degree of skepticism.
  • How long has the page been up? Have there been multiple name changes? Scam sites are often transient – Once outed as a scam site they close down and start over with a new site or change the page name. A page or group that is very recent or has recently done a name change may be a red flag.
  • Do the admins post in the group? An admin that never posts or participates in the group is a red flag.

These are two examples of admins from Cairn Terrier sites – note that neither of them have made any posts in the site.

• • Does the page information provide real contact info (under About) such as a phone number and website link? Legitimate sites should have contact information provided.

This site has no contact information and no links.

• Repetitive posts are a red flag. Scam sites often have very repetitive posts. These posts take several different formats
  • Posts designed to ‘hook’ prospective puppy purchasers (fabricated testimonials). Puppy purchase posts rave about supposed experiences with a particular puppy breeder or seller. Posts are highly scripted and if you have followed the group (or similar groups) for a while, sound very familiar. Typically, these posts will provide a link that takes you directly to the purported breeder.
  • Posts designed to drive traffic to the site (click bait, like-farming). These posts typically consist of a cute or sad picture with comments like ‘Say yes if I am beautiful’ or ‘Say hi so we know you are active’ or ‘I bet my dog won’t get any likes’.  Soliciting comments is an attempt to drive traffic to the group or page. Once a post collects enough likes and shares it may be edited to add a malicious link, or scammers may sell the site on the black market where buyers can use it to spam followers or harvest user information.

This is a click bait post. Also note that one scam site is cross posting to another scam site (same admins).

• • Keep in mind that even in a scam site, especially one with lots of followers, many of the posts may be legitimate, from well meaning members.  The presence of legitimate posts does not mean the site itself is legitimate.
• Follower lists are private. Legitimate public sites typically do not make their follower lists private.
• Check the source of images using a reverse image search tool like Google images. Here is how: open a search engine and go to images.google.com. Click on the camera icon on the right end of the search bar and paste or upload the image you want to check.  The results will show other places on line where that image has been posted. You then need to do a bit of sleuthing to see if you can track back to the original source.  For example: the image below is posted on a site called ‘Cairn Terrier Puppy Available for Adoption with the caption ‘I lost my boy today, 14 Years old. I’m broken and hurting so bad’. Posted by Nambu Ama Rash (the  very unlikely profile picture is a caucasian female) from Bafoussam, Cameroon. In the reverse image search you can find the image posted on Wikimedia with credit given to Redsflame created 2004 and uploaded in 2011. The dog pictured is Attractive Alex dell’Allevamento Reds Flame (Italy).  This same image and text is also posted on Black Cairn Terrier Lovers by a different poster. While someone could post a stolen image to a legitimate website, frequent stolen images or stolen images posted by admins or site owners are a huge red flag.

A typical click bait post. A reverse image search shows that the picture does not belong to the poster.

The poster has has a name that does not match the profile picture and the poster is shown as located in Cameroon.

• Consider the group or page name – Legitimate breeders typically use their kennel or personal name for their page. Legitimate Cairn terrier aficionado sites will tend to have generic names like Cairn Terriers Rock or Love Our Cairn Terriers. In contrast, scam sites will often employ terms like rehoming, adoption, or puppies available in the group name as they want to be easily found by people looking for puppies. E.g. Cairn Terrier Adoption. Hub, Cairn Terrier Adoption and Rehoming, Cairn Terrier Lovers and Rehoming.
• Look for links between pages and groups – The Cairn Terrier Lovers / Adoption Hub is actually run by Cairn Terrier Adoption Hub. Cairn Terrier Lovers and Black Cairn Terrier Lovers are admins for Cairn Terrier Lovers Group. Both of the former are listed as digital creators.

Sadly, many, if not most, of the Cairn Terrier groups on facebook are scam sites.  Any time a site pops up in your feed it is a good idea to do a bit of sleuthing to see if it is legitimate – even if you have multiple friends already in the group. Be careful what you like and share!

Here are several legitimate groups

• https://www.facebook.com/CanadaCairns
• Love our Cairn Terriers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1172563356121987
• Cairn Terriers Rock!!!

For more info on how to identify on-line puppy sale scams and click bait sites

• https://malwaretips.com/blogs/puppy-scam-websites-exposed/
• https://www.malwarebytes.com/blog/news/2019/04/explained-like-farming

Here are some tips to help keep your pups safe and happy over the holidays

1. Create an ‘air lock’ system around any door that opens to an unsecured area to prevent your dog from bolting if someone opens the door. This can be an X pen around the door or a tethering post near the door with a leash handy and a reminder note on the door to not open it until the dog(s) are leashed up.  Use a dead bolt to help reduce the likelihood of someone opening the door without thinking.
2. Create a ‘do not disturb’ zone for your dog so you can give them a safe, quiet space to retreat to if things become overwhelming for them. The busy-ness of holidays with unfamiliar people, sounds, activities and disrupted routines can become overwhelming or overstimulating for some dogs.  A cozy nest or crate in an ‘off limits’ room with some white noise or classical music to create a sound buffer and a nice long lasting chew toy can help give your pup a break from too much activity and stimulation. Strive to keep to your pups normal routine in terms of walks, meals and rest times, as much as possible.
3. If visitors are bringing dogs, try to arrange for an initial ‘get to know you’ meeting on neutral ground.  Parallel walks can help dogs become familiar and comfortable with each other with no pressure to interact directly. Start walking as far apart as needed so that each dog can walk politely and respond to their handler and then gradually work closer to each other until they can walk side by side with no issues, Be sure to create safe spaces for each dog where they can be separate from the other.  Supervise play until you are confident they are good together and be especially careful if food is around.
4. Advise family and friends not to place gifts containing chocolate or food items under the tree and to keep medications, chewing gum and CBD products secure from pets. Ideally such products should stay out of the house in a vehicle, but if that is not possible, kept in an area that is reliably secure from pets. It is all too easy for a guest to forget to close a room door – and guest rooms and items will have interesting new smells that pets love to explore and, should they find something interesting,  perhaps sample.
5. Create an exclusion zone around the tree – an Xpen or other physical barrier around the tree is helpful, or you can opt for a smaller tree that can be placed on a table. This will ensure that pups cannot help themselves to tree water (some additives are toxic, water may be contaminated with bacteria or tree oils), ornaments that might be a choking hazard, or break and cause injury, and pine needles that may cause stomach upset. An exclusion zone can also help prevent your dog or cat from pulling a tree over on themselves.
6. Dangerous plants should be avoided or placed only in secure areas pets are reliably unable to access. Plants of special concern this time of year include the following (but this is not an exhaustive list so it is always wise to check – here is a good resource: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/dogs-plant-list )
   • Mistletoe
   • Poinsettia
   • Lilies
   • Holly
   • Amaryllis, Paperwhites (Snowdrops)
   • Yew
7. Potpourri and essential oils: many liquid potpourri and essential oils, especially those we value for creating a lovely seasonal ambience are toxic to dogs. Toxicity can occur through ingestion, skin contact or inhalation.  Onset of symptoms, especially with inhalation toxicity can be gradual and subtle. Symptoms can be gastrointestinal upset, skin or mouth irritation, or respiratory  or neurological symptoms. If you suspect toxicity, contact your vet or the poison control line and take the suspect product with you if you need an emergency vet visit. For more on essential oils see https://www.goodrx.com/pet-health/pets/are-essential-oils-pet-safe .
8. People foods: one of the delights of the holiday season is enjoying decadent dinners and desserts. Table scraps at this time are more likely to be rich and heavy on fats with risk of complications such as pancreatitis or intestinal upset. Candy and sweets may include xylitol which is highly dangerous to dogs. There is an increasing list of alternative names for xylitol – many of which sound quite benign. Look for xylite, meso-xylitol, E967, Wood sugar, Birch sugar, Plant based sweetener, Sucre de bouleau, and Bocha sweet. Sometimes xylitol can be hidden in vague terms such as natural or artificial flavour.  Xylitol can be used 1:1 as a sugar substitute in baking so guests bearing gifts may be bringing baked goods with xylitol into the house.

As you make your plans for Christmas, make pet safety part of your planning, and have a wonderful Christmas!

As AI is increasingly taking over the on-line world, it is important to understand the pros and cons of using AI generated information for dog training and to be able to recognize the signs that something may be AI generated.

What formats does AI take in dog training applications?

• Smart collars and trackers– designed to monitor movement, location, vital signs, vocalizations etc.
• Behaviour analysis apps – these apps use AI supported algorithms to recognize behaviour patterns, document training progress and offer advice
• AI supported camera systems to monitor dog movements and alert owners to unusual behaviours.
• Digital training – platforms delivering individualized training plans that ideally adjust to progress

While there are both pros and cons associated with the use of smart collars and behaviour analysis apps, the rest of this blog will focus on digital training – the kind of training programs that are increasingly being marketed on social media.

Generic problems with AI

• AI is well known to produce incorrect information – so much so that this has been referred to as AI hallucinations. “An AI hallucination occurs when the model produces a response that sounds plausible but is factually incorrect, logically flawed, or completely invented.” AI hallucinations are not a bug, but rather a feature of how large language model AI creates text.
• Data bias: AI creates text by scanning data. If the data being scanned is inaccurate, biased, outdated, or slanted, AI will generate text that itself is biased. AI does not reliably evaluate the quality or accuracy of the information it uses to produce its results.

Problems with AI in dog training

• Best practices in dog training have evolved over the years as we have developed a deeper understanding of canine cognition and behaviour. Older models of training based on correction and coercion have been shown to be less effective than models based on choice, cooperation and positive reinforcement. Unfortunately, there is still a large body of literature and a significant number of trainers who use, promote, and write about traditional force-based methods – either as a sole method or in combination with positive reinforcement (which produces confusion and conflict in the dog). Unless AI tools are explicitly told to avoid force-based or so called ‘balanced’ methods in their data gathering, AI recommendations will be tainted with what we know to be inappropriate and harmful to dog welfare.
• AI based digital training cannot fine tune recommendations based on in-person observations as a qualified trainer does.

What should a dog owner do?

• Find a good positive reinforcement-based trainer in your area and work with them. This is especially important if you are having behavioural issues.
• When looking for online training materials, seek out known trainers with a strong commitment of positive reinforcement-based training such as
  • Donna Hill: https://servicedogtraininginstitute.online/ (more then just SD training)
  • Kikkopup: https://www.youtube.com/@kikopup
  • George Zak: https://www.youtube.com/zakgeorge21/videos , https://dogtrainingrevolution.podbean.com/
  • Susan Garrett: https://www.youtube.com/c/DogsThat/videos
• When you are served up ads offering dog training, evaluate carefully to look for signs the content is generated by AI or that training methodology includes techniques based on punishment, coercion or correction.

How to recognize AI generated text

1. Em dashes: an ‘em dash’ is a dash that is the length of the letter M. To insert an em dash, a human must hold down the shift + option keys while typing a hyphen or select it from the symbol’s menu, therefore most human writers will use quicker and more convenient options such as other punctuation (comma, parenthesis, colon or semicolon) or a hyphen. For some reason, AI loves em dashes. Excessive use oif em dashes is a clue to AI text.  For more information on em and en dashes see: https://www.merriam-webster.com/grammar/em-dash-en-dash-how-to-use
2. Triplet phasing – the human brain is predisposed to remember 3-sets and therefore AI is programmed to describe things in threes. Overuse of triplet phrasing  is a common feature of AI writing.  g. “Neo doesn’t just load pages, it organizes, summarizes and protects while you browse.  It’s like having Chat GPT + Google + Norton security all in one tab.” “no wires, no fuel, no emissions”.
3. Reversal sentences: Sentences that state what something isn’t (or doesn’t do) then reverse and explains what it is (or does). g. It wasn’t  just ‘x’ it was ‘y’. It’s not about xx, it’s about yy.  Multiple reversal sentences are a common feature of AI writing.
4. Highly consistent length of sentence and paragraph. Human writing typically has variation in sentence and paragraph length.
5. Overuse of dramatic language (content to impress rather than inform)
   • attention-grabbing phases or narrative hooks³: Have you ever…., What if I told you….Are you struggling with…. No one saw it coming….
   • buzzwords such as game-changing, cutting-edge, revolutionary, innovative, rich tapestry etc.
   • capitalization
   • emojis
6. Absence of personal anecdotes or experiences (and personal pronouns)
7. You can use free AI text detectors to evaluate content, and it will give you a probability of AI generation. https://www.grammarly.com/ai-detectorv

References

1. https://www.sciencenewstoday.org/what-are-ai-hallucinations-and-why-do-they-happen
2. https://www.forbes.com/sites/torconstantino/2024/09/20/5-easy-ways-to-tell-if-written-content-came-from-genai/
3. https://www.tomsguide.com/ai/how-to-spot-ai-writing-5-telltale-signs-to-look-for
4. https://youtu.be/hkZ3EqtPzFg

Seems common sense to protect puppies by keeping them at home during this vulnerable period – right?

Here is the problem: The first 12 weeks of a puppy’s life is a critical development period, during which small exposures help him learn ‘who belongs in his community’ (people, dogs, other animals) and ‘what belongs in his world’ (sounds, inanimate objects, movements etc.).  The brain is primed to accept novelty as safe and good (assuming experiences happen in a safe and positive manner).  Starting around 8 weeks and continuing for several months thereafter, the brain undergoes a gradual transition to perceiving novelty as potentially unsafe.   This is a time when wild canines would be emerging from the den and moving further away from the dam – exposing themselves to potential dangers and predators. This switch in the perception of novelty is a protective mechanism.

If we are cocooning our puppies until after completion of vaccinations, we are left trying to socialize them at a time when their brain is screaming at them that novelty is BAD and SCARY!  Novel exposures at this time can create fear and reactivity that lasts a lifetime.
Evidence shows that failure to socialize adequately during the critical socialization period is far riskier to a puppy’s long-term survival than the risk of infectious disease.  Far more dogs are euthanized because of socialization failures than die from infectious diseases during puppyhood.
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviour has clearly stated that delaying socialization until completion of vaccines is an outdated and harmful approach that has no place in current dog training.  Unfortunately, not all veterinarians, breeders and trainers follow the recommendations of the AVSAB – many still advise keeping a puppy at home until completion of vaccines. This deprives them of the opportunity to learn at a time when it is easy for them to accept novelty as good and safe.

How can we mitigate the risk of infectious disease and still derive the benefit of early socialization?

For Breeders:
·       Ensure newborn puppies get colostrum.   This means getting newborns feeding as early as possible after birth, including post C Section birth.
·       Puppies that do not get colostrum may benefit from plasma and earlier initiation of vaccines.

For Puppy Owners:
·       Carefully select puppy classes with good sanitation protocols and small class sizes.
·       Arrange observation opportunities – we learned during COVID that puppies can learn a great deal from observation.
·       Use a puppy stroller to facilitate visiting locations where you do not want your puppy on the ground.
·       Avoid letting your puppy walk in areas where dog feces are likely to be found.
·       Arrange play dates with age matched puppies in a home environment.

What if I do not get my puppy until 12 weeks?  Many good breeders do not let puppies go until 12 weeks. Puppies learn a lot from remaining with mom and littermates through 12 weeks.  This also avoids placing puppies during the fear period that typically hits between 8 and 10 weeks where we sometimes need to back off a bit from exposing the puppy to new experiences.  If you obtain your puppy from a breeder who follows good  puppy socialization and habituation programs like Puppy Culture and others,  you are already ahead of the game. Talk to your breeder about what they have done in terms of socialization and habituation activities and make a plan to continue socializing your puppy – gently exposing them to people, places, dogs, other animals, sounds, sights etc. If you get your puppy from a breeder who is not focused on socialization and habituation, you will have to play catch up.

What if I missed the window and my puppy is over 16 weeks?  All is not lost.  Socialization always continues after 16 weeks, but the gains are slower. Set up experiences where your dog can engage safely – or where he can watch from a distance until he is ready to engage. Be patient and pay attention to his body language so that you can avoid pushing him when he is not ready.

More is not necessarily better. The key with both socialization and habituation is that they must happen in a safe and positive manner. One bad experience can undo many positive ones. The old adage of “100 new experiences in 100 days” points out the need for extensive exposures but fails to emphasize the importance of making each and every one of those experiences a good one.  It is better to have fewer safe and positive experiences than many with some bad experiences mixed in. Socialization is more than a check list.  It must include a) careful planning to ensure the experience is a good one, b) observation of the puppy’s body language and c) an exit plan if things are not going well.

Your puppy has the right to say ‘no’.  If he backs away from someone or something, he is saying no. Let him approach on his own terms and reward him away from the person, dog or thing by placing the treat behind him and encouraging him to move back to get it. Do NOT lure him when he is hesitant – this will not alleviate his anxiety.  Giving him the free choice to approach on his own terms and reinforcing when he does is a far more effective way to help him become more confident.

Be an advocate for your puppy – don’t let anyone push your puppy, force him to do anything or keep approaching if he is showing hesitancy. Sometimes you will need to be firm and insistent.

This is wonderful period in your puppy’s life when their learning is exponential. A bit of planning and effort will pay huge dividends.

Resource guarding is a term used to describe behaviour displayed by dogs that are protecting precious resources. The dog has something of value to them and typically, they have learned from past experience that someone (person or dog) approaching means that they are likely to lose that resource. Genetics can play a role in how likely a dog is to resource guard.  In resource guarding,  the dog will do whatever they perceive as necessary to make sure the threat goes away. When obvious, this involves behaviours like: taking the item and running away, giving a hard stare, freezing, hunkering down over the item, growling, snarling and snapping. Less obvious signs can be subtle tensing of the body, flattened ears, lip curls, eating faster, etc.

Anything a dog values can trigger resource guarding: food, bully sticks, bones, toys, places (like a chair, bed, or crate) and people or other animals.  Dogs can also learn to resource guard contraband (anything they randomly pick up from the ground) because they know we will try to take it away from them.  Resource guarding is a survival instinct – in the wild, canids may need to vigorously defend their food to avoid losing it to other animals. Guarding is NORMAL.

Stealing contraband!

So, while resource guarding is normal and understandable, it is a concern for family pets.  Resource guarding is a common cause of bites, especially to children.   Resource guarding can also trigger fights between dogs. It can make it difficult for us to get something dangerous away from our dogs. We can teach out dogs that it is not necessary to guard their stuff. Ideally, we start the process when they are very young puppies. We want them to learn to surrender items happily, in joyful anticipation that we are going to give them back something equal or better in value.

If you have an established resource guarder – it is important to seek help from a positive reinforcement-based training.  Punishing resource guarding or using dominance-based approaches will tend to suppress the warning signs and push the dog into more dangerous behaviours if they are pushed beyond their ability to cope.  Resource guarding prevention exercises need to be modified if your dog is already showing established resource guarding behaviours.

If you have a young puppy, now is the time to work on resource guarding prevention exercises.  Here a couple of exercises aimed at helping your dog have happy anticipation for something nice in return when they surrender a valued resource.

TRADE: Teach your puppy to happily ‘trade’ one item for another. Wait for him to pick something up and approach with a treat in your closed hand. Cue him to drop the item with a verbal cue such as drop, give, out or mine, then slide the closed hand with the treat in it close to his mouth and pause for him to sniff the treat – at which point he will likely open his mouth and drop the item. Use a verbal marker or click and open your hand to let him take the treat. Repeat 5-6 times and then do the same, using the same hand gesture but with NO treat in your hand. When he drops the item, mark (verbal or clicker) and then give the treat. Keep working the exercise and gradually fade away the closed fist under the chin. When your dog immediately drops items when you give the verbal cue you can start fading the visual cue of your fist beneath the chin

ALL the toys are MINE

EXCHANGE GAMES: Teach your puppy to anticipate something great if you reach for something he has.  Start teaching this with low value items. You want to have two identical items (toy, low value chew, bowl with a handful of cheerios etc.). Let your puppy have one of the items and hold the other behind your back so your puppy cannot see it. Let him enjoy the item for a while, then gently remove it, pulling it away to one side. Immediately slide in the other item from the other side. We are trying to establish a predictive sequence – when you take something, I can expect something of equal or better value in return. It is important that your puppy does not see the new item until immediately after the first item is removed.  Work with low value items until you can see that your puppy is anticipating the return items as soon as you remove the first. Typically, this will be manifested by the puppy turning his attention away from the first item and looking in the direction that the new items comes in. Once you have this you can start building up slowly to more valuable items.

UPGRADES: While your dog is eating, walk by them and as you pass toss a special, high value treat into their bowl – or as close as you can get it.  Make sure it is better than what is in their bowl. Once you have tossed, keep moving on.

Other things to consider:
While we want our dogs to happily surrender items to us on cue, we also want our dogs to be able to enjoy special items undisturbed.  Teach children and other family members to leave the dog alone when they are eating or enjoying special treats. If you want to give special items to multiple dogs in the household, establish separate areas for them to enjoy these items without another dog trying to take it away from them.

Heat cramps
o   muscle cramps due to loss of sodium and water
Heat exhaustion
o   fatigue, lethargy, weakness, muscle tremors, vomiting, diarrhea
o   body temperature 103-105o F
Heat stroke   
o   symptoms of heat exhaustion PLUS
o   neurologic symptoms: confusion, seizures, abnormal gait, incoordination, tremors, coma
o   bloody vomiting or diarrhea, blood in urine
o   major organ damage,  body temperature >106o F (41o C).
Multiorgan failure and impending death occurs with temperatures of 107-109o F.

Common symptoms seen in dogs as they progress from mild to severe heat related illness include heavy panting, excessive drooling, very red-purple gums and tongue, dry, sticky gums or saliva, tachycardia (rapid heart rate).

Risk factors for heat related illness in dogs include:
·      Heart disease
·      Obesity
·      Tracheal collapse / laryngeal paralysis
·      Brachycephalic breeds
·      Thick and / or dark coats

Triggers for heat related illness include:
·      Leaving a dog in a parked vehicle is one of the most common causes of heat stroke. Temperature inside a parked car can rise very quickly
·      Leaving dogs outside without access to shade and plenty of fresh water
·      Vigorous (or even moderate) exercise on hot days

Preventing Heat Related Illness

Plan ahead! This is especially important if you are travelling or away from home.  Have everything you need to monitor for, prevent, and treat heat related illness. Things to have in your kit include: rectal thermometer, plenty of water both for drinking and to apply to the dog if they become overheated, towels, cool coats, sun reflective screens / shade blankets and other sunshades.

Plan exercise for cooler times of day. Take walks early and late in the day rather than when temperatures are high  Avoid vigorous exercise when it is hot. Avoid ball / disc games, flirt pole activities etc. Dogs that love these activities can be so motivated to play that they continue well past the point of safety.

Leave your dog at home. Unless it is imperative that your dog come with you, he is likely to be happier at home. If the house is not air conditioned, get him used to spending time in cooler parts of the house such as basements.  If you cannot leave your dog home alone safely, options include doggie day care, pet sitters, friends to check in on your dog, remote monitoring. Ensure you leave plenty of fresh water available to your dog any time you leave them alone.

RVing. If you leave your dog in an RV, fans and AC can help keep the unit cool, but can fail, resulting in rapid rise in temperatures inside the unit on hot days. Breakers can trip, batteries can run down, plugs can become dislodged. Remote temperature monitoring devices with alarms can be helpful as long as you are close enough to respond promptly if necessary. Having a back-up plan with someone to look in on your dog and physically check their well-being is you must leave them unsupervised in the unit.

Always provide plenty of fresh water.  Ideally use a water bowl that cannot be tipped over or spilled and large enough to ensure a thirsty dog will have more than enough for your expected absence and to cover unexpected delays.

Do not shave your double coated dog!  Double coats (like Cairn Terriers) have important insulating properties. Shaving the coat actually increases the risk of overheating due to loss of the insulating action of the undercoat.

Cool coats are special coats that can be saturated with water to provide cooling action as the water evaporates. The best cooling action is likely when the vest covers the belly where there is less coat and heat transfer happens more efficiently.  Cool coats that only cover the back and sides will not provide as much cooling.  You can place a cool coat in the bottom of a crate, or even a damp towel.  Be sure to re-wet the coat thoroughly before it fully dries for optimum benefit.

Doggie pools are a good way to beat the heat.  Encourage your pup to stand in a pool with the water up to his flanks.  Hose play or splash pads can be ok for some dogs – but if your dog likes to bite at / chase the water, be aware that they can ingest sufficient water to develop acute gastric distension or water intoxication.

Crates, Beds and Bedding:
Remove bedding from crates
Use a cooling bed (gel or water filled) – these cool beds will typically provide several hours of cooling but will eventually equilibrate with the dog’s temperature and will need a cool down period to be effective.
If you don’t have a fancy cooling bed, place wet towels on the bottom of the crate.
Elevated dog beds with breathable fabric allow air circulation under the bed and helps keep you dog cooler. These are great options for outside.
If you must leave your dog in a crate in hot weather, a wire crate will provide better airflow than a plastic or metal crate. Crate fans are a helpful tool to keep a crated dog cool.

How do water bowls get contaminated?
As the dog drinks, saliva from their mouth gets into the water.  Facial fur gets wet allowing transfer of dirt and other contamination from the fur to water. Some dogs like to put their paws in the water and play with it – paws may carry dirt, feces etc. into the water.

The type of bowl matters
The material a bowl is made from makes a difference. Smooth surfaces are less able to support bacterial growth. Irregular surfaces, scratches, cracks, and chips will create spaces for organisms to take hold, survive and reproduce.

Stainless steel
Good quality stainless steel is the best option in terms of microbial contamination. It is easy to clean and disinfect and not prone to cracking or chipping which may leave areas that are difficult to clean and enhance bacterial growth. It is important to avoid use of abrasive cleaners that may scratch the surface.  There are some risks associated with metal bowls.  Bowls produced in China have been found to contain lead and or radioactive material. A 2013 recall by Petco was caused by radioactive Cobalt-60 found in food/ water bowls.  Likewise, avoid purchasing bowls from discount stores as there is very high likelihood that these are produced under unsafe manufacturing conditions. Some dogs may dislike stainless steel bowls especially if dog tags impinge on the bowl as they drink.

Glass
Glass comes second in terms of safety for risk of microbial contamination. The main concern with glass bowls is chipping and cracking which can cause injury to the dog or make the bowl more vulnerable to contamination.  Like stainless steel bowls, glass bowls have been found to include non-food safe substances when produced by companies not following Good Manufacturing Process (GMP).

Ceramic
Like glass bowls, ceramic bowls are easy to clean but also prone to damage resulting in chips and cracks. Chips and crackling of the glaze will expose the porous clay underneath and support enhanced bacterial growth.   Some studies have shown that ceramic bowls are the best at supporting the growth of biofilm which in turn creates an environment that enhances microbial growth and survival.  Ceramic glazes often include lead and other toxins. Ceramic items must be certified as food safe for human use but there is no such requirement for bowls intended for dogs, so choosing a ceramic bowl that is designated for human use or explicitly labelled as ‘food-safe’ is important.

Plastic
One study showed that plastic bowls had the highest bacterial count compared to stainless steel, glass and ceramic options They are also prone to scratches and damage that will facilitate the growth of micro-organisms.  Plastic bowls may also contain phthalates, synthetic estrogens, such as BPA, and other toxic substances that may leach into food or water and be ingested.  Plastic bowls can also cause Plastic Dish Nasal Dermatitis which is due to p-benzylhydroquinone in the plastic. This substance inhibits production of melanin which is responsible for the black pigment in the nose. Affected dogs develop pale / pink discolouration of the nose.  Chin acne is another issue that is sometimes seen with plastic water bowls.

Aluminum
Aluminum bowls are not considered safe due to the risk of aluminum leaching into water and the being consumed and absorbed.  Anodized aluminum may be safer, but it is likely best to avoid aluminum all together

Silicon
Silicon is an inert substance and makes a good water bowl. Silicon bowls are great for travel purposes but generally not practical for daily use as they are not rigid and therefore more prone to tipping, being squished, and spilling.

Bamboo
Recently, along with the increasing popularity of bamboo as a renewable resource, bamboo bowls have become available along with innumerable other bamboo products. They are described as eco-friendly sustainable, biodegradable and durable. When using bamboo bowls, it is important to make sure the bamboo is grown without the use of toxic substances (some have been found to have toxic fillers) and that the coating is food safe. Care must be taken to avoid scratching the coating. Bamboo bowls tend to be light weight so may not be the best choice for dogs that like to play in their water bowl.

What can we do to reduce the risk to reduce risk of microbial and chemical contamination?
1.     Purchase bowls (stainless steel, glass, or ceramic) made in Canada or the USA.
2.     If using ceramic bowls, use only items certified for human use (food safe).
3.     Do a complete water change daily.
4.     Clean daily with soap and water and mechanical scrubbing (using a nonabrasive cloth or brush) to remove biofilm.
5.     Avoid use of cleaning items that could scratch the surface of the bowl (steel wool, abrasive cleaners).
6.     Monitor glass and ceramic bowls closely for damage  (chips, cracks, cracked glazing) and discard damaged bowls.
7.     Sterilize bowls with bleach regularly (e.g. 2-3 times weekly).
8.     Adding a small amount of white or apple cider vinegar to the water (1 tsp per liter) increases the acidity of the water and helps inhibit microbial growth.
9.     Avoid water bowls with large reservoirs that are designed for multi day use.

Have you seen those ubiquitous facebook ads offering easy, instantaneous, and guaranteed fixes for your dog’s behaviour? Phrases that figure prominently in these ads include: ‘amazing results’, ‘works for all dogs’, ‘the lazy way to train’, ‘works right away’, ‘one simple hack’, ‘secret trick’, ‘100% effective’, and so on.  But as always, the aphorism Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) applies.  What you see is often NOT what you get! Let’s take one example:

A typical ad reads like this:

One simple trick to stop dog barking in 5 hours or less!  The ad promises to share a simple trick to get you started in a 3-minute video.  What happens when you click on the video?  You are taken to a more than 15-minute-long video that tells a story about a dog biting a mail man and then launches into a hard sell for a $97 masterclass in addressing dog biting (but amazingly (!) available right now for only $17!  But time is running out! You MUST act now to lock in the savings!). At no point in the video is any useful information given about how to address barking. If an organization cannot be honest about the content and duration of a simple video, how likely is it their advertising about the amazing efficacy of their product is honest?

Are there quick fixes in dog training?
The answer is mostly ‘no’, and a qualified ‘yes’ (which we will come to later).  Effective training is a process and takes time. Some dogs learn certain skills very quickly – other skills take more time. But once a skill is learned – there is more to be done.  We need to:
·       build value (make the behaviour one the dog sees value in performing)
·       generalize the behaviour (to different locations and contexts) and
·       proof the behaviour (made it distraction proof).
All this takes time!

Building value is like making a deposit in an account for that behaviour. We make deposits by marking the behaviour with a verbal marker or clicker and then immediately following that up with something the dog loves (food, play, praise, petting, life rewards etc.)  Both the quality of the reinforcer (high value vs lower value) and the frequency of reinforcement are important. If you want to build value quickly – reinforce often and with high value reinforcers.  Play and food are often more valuable than praise and petting. Some types of play are more valuable than others. Some treats are more valuable than others.  Effective training includes understanding your dog’s reinforcement hierarchy and using it to advantage.  Once the dog has learned the behaviour solidly, we need to make sure he understands the cue and the behaviour no matter where he is and no matter what is going on around him (generalizing and proofing).

Dogs repeat behaviours that get reinforced! Unfortunately, not all reinforcement comes from us and not all is under our control. If we stick with the example of barking – barking may be reinforced by a wide variety of things – stress relief, attention from owner, the thing barked at moves away etc.  By the time barking is noted as a problem behaviour, the dog already has a substantial history of reinforcement for barking that is going to make it resistant to being extinguished quickly and easily.

Most quick fixes rely on suppression of behaviour through use of aversive techniques. Aversive techniques are designed to introduce fear. Repeated application of aversives can lead to a state of learned helplessness where the behaviour is suppressed. Suppression of the behaviour does nothing to address the reason why the dog is barking and can leave the dog feeling stressed and conflicted – and even more concerning, fearful of the owner or handler applying the aversive technique. When an ad claims quick fixes, the training technique is often one that relies on inducing a state of learned helplessness so that the dog is afraid of doing the behaviour and will suppress the behaviour. One of the problems we see with this approach is that in some cases, the suppression only goes so far – a fearful dog that has been punished for growling can suppress the growl – but if pushed too far outside his comfort zone, will explode past growling into a lunge and bite.

Helpful quick fixes that are things that address the underlying cues (triggers) for the behaviour and managing the environment to minimize the cues. For the example of barking, this includes things like white noise to obscure auditory cues, window shades / blinds / frosting to minimize visual cues, moving the dog to a different area of the house when external cues trigger barking etc. Getting rid of the trigger can help manage the problem while you work on the emotions that trigger barking and train alternate, desirable behaviours in response to the triggers.
Many undesirable behaviours are the result of uncomfortable emotions – anxiety, fear, boredom.  Because these behaviours help to some extent to ‘solve’ the emotional problem for the dog, they are internally and naturally reinforced. Sorting through why dogs behave as they do (whether barking or some other undesirable behaviour) takes time. Good behavioural help starts with 1) understanding why the dog does what he does, 2) instituting a good management plan to address immediate concerns and 3) then crafting a training plan to address the specific need. This can be training an alternate acceptable behaviour (inside voice instead of loud barking) or desensitizing / counter conditioning work to help change the dog’s emotional response so that the behaviour is no longer needed. There is nothing quick about this!  But there is also nothing harmful to your dog – or to your relationship with your dog.

Quick fixes are so appealing – but in the vast majority of cases, they are not the wonderful quick fix they are promised to be. If your pup is doing something that drives you crazy, seek out a fear free / positive reinforcement qualified trainer to help you address the problem holistically.  Don’t get taken in by ads that promise the world in an instant but are likely to apply harmful and outdated techniques. Modern, ethical dog training uses positive reinforcement without using fear and aversive / correction-based modalities.

Did you know that the Cairn Terrier Club of Canada has a number of trainers across the country?

Jan Morgan (Oshawa ON) – Pawsitive Puppies  https://www.pawsitivepuppies.com/
Jeannette Hargreaves (Saskatoon SK) – grastar@sasktel.net
Karen McClean (Okotoks AB) – Wags to Wishes K9 Training and Separation Anxiety Coaching, Zoom Training  https://www.tarahillcairns.com/
Shelley Cherkowski (Richmond BC) – Cairnheart K9 Training https://cairnheartk9.ca/contact/

Meet MacTavish!
MacTavish,(Gaegordon’s Beau Bristle), is an exuberant, loving, intelligent, determined, enthusiastic four year old Cairn Terrier owned by Margaret Armstrong, a Cairn Terrier Club of Canada member from the Gananoque area in Ontario. MacTavish received Canine Good Neighbour (CGN) certification from the Canadian Kennel Club in September 2023.

What is the CKC Canine Good Neighbour Program?
The program is a 12-step test that encourages owners to strengthen their relationship with their dogs. A dog that receives certification is counted on to have good manners at home, in public places and in the presence of other dogs. The Canine Good Neighbour training is meant to be fun, rewarding, and useful. It is interesting to note that the CGN is an important first step for many therapy dog teams.

What is the 12-step Test?
The test is non-competitive and assesses the owner-dog team in a variety of situations in a busy environment. The evaluator gives either a Pass or a Not Ready for each of the 12 steps. A dog has to pass all of the components in order to qualify for the CGN certification. Many handlers and dogs take the test more than once before receiving certification.
Here are the 12 components of the test:
1 Accepting A Friendly Stranger
2 Politely Accepts Petting
3 Appearance and Grooming
4 Out For A Walk
5 Walking Through A Crowd
6 Sit/Down On Command and Stay In Place
7 Come When Called
8 Praise/Interaction
9 Reaction To A Passing Dog
10 Reaction To Distractions
11 Supervised Isolation
12 Walking Through A Door/Gate
There is a Participant Handbook available online with a detailed description of each step. A copy can also be ordered by contacting the CKC order desk at 1-800-250-8040. Getting a copy prior to taking the test is recommended.

Who can register to take the test?
All dogs (mixed or purebred) and owners are able to take the test! No membership or registration with CKC is required. The dog must be at least 12 months old to take the test. Many dog training schools offer a CGN preparation course. Information on the test and a link to all scheduled upcoming CGN tests is listed on the CKC website.

Margaret shares her experiences in preparing for the test.
Each section has its own level of difficulty, depending on the size, breed and nature of your dog. Many dogs have difficulty with being left with a stranger, (supervised isolation), while the owner goes out of sight for at least 3 minutes. It is timed. The dogs must be relaxed
with the stranger and not cry or pull on the leash while their owner is out of sight. Most dogs remain in a sit or down position for this part of the
test. While show dogs are used to being approached and touched over their whole body while on a table, for CGN there is no table, so this is all done on the ground, including using a grooming tool.

In preparation we took our guys to Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Rona, Home Hardware and other open spaces where they met other dogs, new people and we allowed them to be petted by even a two year old, who was totally enamoured of MacTavish.

Our preparation included sit, stay and wait around distractions, meeting new people politely, walking through crowds, exposure to things like
crutches, wheelchairs, baby carriages, umbrellas (opening and closing, or open on the ground), walking ahead of the dog through a gate after
making the dog wait in a sit, stand or down position until released and recalls on a long line.

Congratulations MacTavish!
Congratulations to MacTavish and Margaret! Their hard work and commitment to training together have earned MacTavish a CGN Certificate  from the Canadian Kennel Club. MacTavish can be counted on to be a calm and confident companion wherever he and Margaret may go.

For more information about the CGN program go to: https://www.ckc.ca/en/Raising-My-Dog/Responsible-Ownership/Canine-Good-Neighbour-Program
To download the Participant Handbook go to: https://www.ckc.ca/en/Files/Forms/Shows-Trials/Event-Rules-Regulations/Canine-Good-Neighbour-Program-Participant-Handbook

Recently, there has been a controversy raging behind the scenes about whether or not it is safe. to play ball (or fetch) with your dog.  Proponents say that ball play / fetch / frisbee is a good way to engage in something your dog enjoys and to provide real exercise for your dog. Those against ball play cite concerns about risk of repetitive strain injuries and ligament damage, and criticize those engaging in ball play with their dogs for putting their dogs at risk for cruciate ligament injury, lumbosacral disc disease and iliopsoas strains.

As with most things, there IS a happy medium.  Chris Zink, well known veterinarian, and conditioning expert recently reviewed the topic in Showsight magazine. https://showsightmagazine.com/play-ball-safely-tips-retrieving-joyfully-dog/?mc_cid=015d1630e8&mc_eid=1e439248f8

She notes that when a ball is thrown, we are engaging our dog’s prey drive and the instinct to chase. Instinctual behaviours are highly rewarding and provide great emotional benefits to dogs. Owners are likewise rewarded by the relational aspect of ball play. Owners and dogs both get a dopamine hit! Dogs can become highly aroused with games like ball fetch and this arousal triggers an adrenaline burst that drives intensity and further play.  Some dogs will become so highly engaged in the game, that they continue to play beyond the point of safety.  Muscles become tired and overstretched such the dog is no longer in full control and support of their movements. This places the dog at increased risk of injury to the soft tissues (ligaments, tendons and muscles).  Dr Zink illustrates this as the ‘Bliss-Injury Continuum.  On the Bliss side of the continuum dogs are excited with bright eyes, bouncing movements and may be barking with delight. As the dog moves into the muscle overload part of the continuum all of these features persist. There is little to show that the dog is moving into the risk side of the continuum.  A clue that the dog is now in the risk zone is a wide or curled protruding tongue tip. As play continues, the dog moves into the injury zone and eventually the dog displays visible signs of exhaustion.  It is important to note that the dog can remain in the injury zone for quite some time before they quit the game and lie down panting in exhaustion.

So – do we throw ball play out the window?  Doing so would deprive our dogs of an activity that brings them emotional, physical, and relational benefits.  The key is to play safely.  Dr. Zink offers some tips on how to accomplish this.
·      Throw such that the object is stationary by the time the dog reaches it (this prevents the jumping and twisting / hard impacts that can promote injury) or throw the ball into brush so the dog slows down to search for it.
·      Avoid having your dog catch the object in the air.
·      Provide a variety of activities so that the dog has the needed balance of strength, coordination, and body awareness. Conditioning programs can help. Here are a couple of free on-line sites that provide tips. https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/easy-exercises-for-canine-conditioning/ and https://canineconditioningcoach.com/ and https://canineconditioningcoach.com/canine-conditioning-quick-canine-workout/
·      Use balls that are small enough to catch easily but not so small they present a choking hazard, grippy rather than slippery and have either NO or TWO holes. (Balls with a single hope can result in the tongue becoming entrapped in the ball).

Most importantly, the key to safety is to play in short spells – stop the play before your dog moves into the injury zone.  Keep an eye out for the tongue signs (wide, curled tip) that are physical evidence that your dog is moving into the injury zone and provide a cool down period.  Consider low / no impact types of ball play – retrieving balls from a kiddie pool, giggle balls to chase, ball pits etc.